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The “In a Nutshell” Box
| ⏱️ Time Required | 2–3 Hours |
| 🔨 Skill Level | Absolute Beginner |
| 💰 Estimated Cost | $25–$60 (depending on mirror size and molding choice) |
| ✨ Core Benefit | A bathroom that looks custom-designed and elegantly finished — for the price of a takeout dinner |
That Mirror Has Been Bothering You for Years, Hasn’t It?
You know the one.
That plain, builder-grade mirror that came with your bathroom when you moved in. The one with the raw, unfinished edges that are glued directly to the wall. The one that is perfectly functional but has absolutely zero personality.
Maybe you have walked past it every single morning for the last ten years, telling yourself, “I really should do something about that mirror.”
And then life gets busy. And the mirror stays exactly the same. Plain. Boring. Unfinished.
Here is what I want you to know today: That mirror is about to become the most beautiful thing in your bathroom. And you are going to do it yourself, this weekend, for less than $60.
We are going to build a frame directly onto that existing mirror using simple wood molding from the hardware store. No removing the mirror. No replacing it. No contractor. Just a few pieces of wood, some glue, and a couple of hours of your Saturday afternoon.
The result looks so custom, so intentional, and so genuinely beautiful that I have had people walk into my bathroom and say, “Oh, is that a new mirror? Where did you buy it?”
No, friend. I made it. And so can you.
Let’s get started.
What You’ll Need for This Project
The Wood:
This is where the magic happens. We are going to use wood molding — the same decorative trim you see around doors and windows — to create a beautiful frame directly on top of your existing mirror.
Here are the best molding options for beginners:
For a Classic, Traditional Look:
Colonial Base Molding (2.5 inch) (This is the most popular choice — it has a beautiful curved profile that looks elegant and timeless.)
For a Modern, Minimalist Look:
Simple Flat Casing Molding (2 inch) (Clean, straight lines that work beautifully in contemporary bathrooms.)
For a Farmhouse or Cottage Look:
Craftsman Style Casing Molding (3 inch) (Slightly wider with a simple stepped profile — gorgeous with shiplap walls.)
💡 How Much to Buy: Measure the perimeter of your mirror (add all four sides together) and add 20% extra for cuts and mistakes. Most molding is sold by the linear foot or in 8-foot lengths.
The Tools and Supplies:
- 📏 A Tape Measure — 16ft tape measure
- ✏️ A Pencil — For marking your cuts
- 🪚 A Miter Box and Hand Saw — This Stanley Miter Box Set (This is the secret weapon of this project — it lets you make perfect 45-degree angle cuts without a power saw. It is essentially a guided cutting tool that does all the hard work for you!)
- 🔧 Wood Glue — Gorilla Wood Glue
- 🔫 A Strong Construction Adhesive — Loctite Power Grab (For adhering the frame to the mirror surface)
- 🎨 Sandpaper — 120-grit and 220-grit
- 🖌️ Paint or Stain — Your choice of finish
- 🪣 Painter’s Tape — FrogTape (For holding pieces in place while the glue dries)
- 🔩 Brad Nails (Optional) — These 1-inch brad nails (For extra security at the corners)
A Quick Word About Miter Cuts
Before we dive in, I want to demystify the one part of this project that sounds scary but is actually completely manageable: the miter cut.
A miter cut is simply a cut made at a 45-degree angle. When you put two pieces of molding together at a corner, each piece is cut at 45 degrees so they meet in a perfect point — just like a picture frame.
The miter box is a simple plastic or wooden guide that holds your saw at exactly the right angle so you cannot go wrong. You do not need any special skills. You just place your wood in the box, line up your pencil mark, and saw along the guide.
If you have ever cut a piece of paper with scissors, you have the motor skills required for this project. I promise.
💡 Pro Tip: Practice your first miter cut on a scrap piece of wood before cutting your actual molding. One practice cut is all you need to feel completely confident!
Step 1: Measure Your Mirror
⏱️ Time: 10 Minutes
Grab your tape measure and measure your mirror carefully:
- Measure the width of the mirror at the top.
- Measure the height of the mirror on one side.
- Write both measurements down.
Now here is the important part: We are going to cut our molding so that the inside edge of the frame sits right at the edge of the mirror. This means the frame will overlap the mirror slightly on the inside — which is exactly what gives it that custom, built-in look.
💡 Pro Tip: Use a piece of painter’s tape to mark the exact edge of your mirror on the wall above and beside it. This gives you a clear visual guide when you are positioning your frame pieces later.
Step 2: Paint or Stain Your Molding First
⏱️ Time: 30–45 Minutes Plus Drying Time
Here is a tip that will save you a lot of frustration: Paint your molding before you cut and install it, not after.
It is much easier to paint a long, flat piece of wood lying on your kitchen table than to try to paint a frame that is already glued to your bathroom mirror.
Here is how:
- Lay your molding pieces flat on a drop cloth or old newspaper.
- Lightly sand with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth any rough spots.
- Wipe away the dust with a damp cloth.
- Apply your first coat of paint or stain.
- Let dry completely, then apply a second coat.
- Once fully dry, lightly sand with 220-grit for an ultra-smooth finish.
Color Recommendations:
- Crisp White: Timeless and works with every bathroom style. My favorite is Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace in a satin finish
- Matte Black: Dramatic and modern — stunning against white subway tile. Rust-Oleum Matte Black Spray Paint gives an incredibly smooth finish on molding.
- Natural Wood Stain: Warm and organic — beautiful in a farmhouse or spa-style bathroom. Minwax Early American Stain
- Brushed Gold: For a glamorous, luxurious look. Rust-Oleum Metallic Gold Spray Paint
Step 3: Cut Your Molding Pieces
⏱️ Time: 30 Minutes
Now we are going to cut our four frame pieces. Take a deep breath — this is easier than it sounds!
The Cutting Order:
Always cut your top and bottom pieces first, then your side pieces. This way, if you make a mistake on a shorter piece, you can recut it from the remaining long piece.
How to Make the Cuts:
For the Top Piece:
- Place your molding in the miter box.
- Set the saw guide to 45 degrees.
- Make your first cut at one end of the molding.
- Measure along the bottom edge of the molding to your mirror width measurement and make a mark.
- Flip the miter box to the opposite 45-degree angle and cut at your mark.
- You now have a perfectly cut top piece!
Repeat this process for the bottom piece (same measurement as the top) and then the two side pieces (same measurement as the mirror height).
💡 The “Dry Fit” Rule: Before you glue anything, lay all four pieces together on a flat surface and check that the corners meet perfectly. This is called a “dry fit” and it is the most important quality check of the whole project. If a corner does not quite meet, a light sanding on the cut edge will fix it.
Step 4: Assemble the Frame
⏱️ Time: 20 Minutes Plus Drying Time
Now we are going to glue the four pieces into a frame before we attach it to the mirror.
- Apply a thin line of wood glue to one mitered end of your top piece.
- Press it firmly against the mitered end of one side piece.
- Wrap painter’s tape tightly around the corner to hold it while the glue dries.
- Repeat for all four corners.
- Let the frame sit flat and undisturbed for at least 1 hour.
Once the glue is dry, check each corner. If there are any small gaps, fill them with a tiny amount of paintable wood filler, let dry, and touch up with your paint.
💡 Extra Security: If you have brad nails and a small hammer, drive one nail through each corner joint for extra strength. This is optional but gives you a very solid, professional-quality frame.
Step 5: Attach the Frame to the Mirror
⏱️ Time: 20 Minutes Plus Drying Time
This is the moment of truth! We are going to attach the finished frame directly onto the mirror surface using construction adhesive.
- Lay your finished frame face-down on a soft surface (a folded towel works perfectly) to protect the painted finish.
- Apply construction adhesive in a zigzag pattern along the back of all four frame pieces. Do not go all the way to the inside edge — you do not want adhesive squeezing out onto the mirror surface.
- Carefully lift the frame and position it on the mirror. Take your time here — once the adhesive touches the mirror, repositioning is difficult.
- Press firmly and evenly around the entire frame.
- Use strips of painter’s tape to hold the frame in place while the adhesive cures.
Let the adhesive cure for a full 24 hours before removing the tape.
💡 Pro Tip: Have a helper hold the frame in position while you step back and check that it is centered and level before pressing it firmly into place. An extra pair of eyes at this stage makes a huge difference!
Step 6: The Finishing Touches
⏱️ Time: 15 Minutes
Once the adhesive has fully cured and you have removed the painter’s tape, there are two final touches that will make your frame look completely professional:
Touch-Up Paint:
Check the corners and edges for any small chips or scuffs from the installation process. Use a small artist’s brush to touch up any spots with your paint color.
Caulk the Inside Edge:
Run a very thin line of paintable latex caulk along the inside edge where the frame meets the mirror surface. Smooth it with a wet finger. This seals the gap between the frame and the mirror and gives it that truly “built-in” look that makes people think it came from a furniture store.
Let the caulk dry completely before using your bathroom normally.
The “Oops!” Section — Troubleshooting
“My corner gaps are really noticeable!”
Fill them with paintable wood filler. Apply with a putty knife, let dry completely, sand smooth, and touch up with paint. Filled and painted corners are virtually invisible.
“The frame is not sitting flat against the mirror — one corner is sticking out.”
This usually means one of your miter cuts was slightly off. Use painter’s tape to pull that corner firmly against the mirror while the adhesive cures. If it still will not lie flat, add a little extra construction adhesive behind that corner and tape it down again.
“My paint is chipping at the corners.”
This happens when the wood was not sanded smooth enough before painting. Lightly sand the chipped area, wipe clean, and apply a fresh coat of paint. Going forward, always sand between coats for the smoothest possible finish.
“The frame looks crooked!”
Step back and look at it from across the room — sometimes what looks crooked up close is actually perfectly straight from a distance. If it is genuinely off, carefully remove the frame while the adhesive is still within its working time (check your adhesive packaging), reposition, and re-tape.
“I hate the color I chose!”
Great news — it is just paint! Sand it lightly, wipe clean, and repaint in your new color. The frame is already built and installed; changing the color is the easiest thing in the world.
The Big Reveal: Your Custom Bathroom Mirror
Remove that painter’s tape. Step back. Look at your bathroom.
That plain, builder-grade mirror that has been bothering you for years? It is gone. In its place is a beautifully framed, custom-looking mirror that anchors your entire bathroom and makes the whole room feel intentional, designed, and finished.
Take your “Before” photo out and compare it to what you are looking at right now.
That transformation? You did that. With a miter box, some wood glue, and a Saturday afternoon.
You Are a Finish Carpenter Now!
Okay, maybe that is a slight exaggeration. But you just made a miter cut, assembled a frame, and installed it on your bathroom mirror. That is genuinely impressive, and you should feel incredibly proud.
More importantly, you now understand how molding and miter cuts work — which means a whole new world of DIY projects just opened up for you. Crown molding, picture frames, decorative wall panels… they all use this exact same skill.
I cannot wait to see your finished mirror! Share your Before and After photos in the comments below. And tell me — what color did you choose for your frame? I am absolutely obsessed with seeing everyone’s results! 👇
Go ahead — Try This at Home!
— [Your Name]
📸 Pinterest Image Ideas for This Post:
- The “Dramatic Transformation”: Left side — a plain, frameless builder mirror above a bathroom vanity. Right side — the same mirror with a beautiful white painted wood frame. Text overlay: “The $35 Bathroom Upgrade That Changes Everything”
- The “Miter Box Close-Up”: A woman’s hands using a miter box and hand saw to cut a piece of white molding. Text overlay: “No Power Tools Needed — Here’s How!”
- The “Style Options” Collage: Four photos showing the same mirror frame in four different finishes — white, black, natural wood, and gold. Text overlay: “Which Finish Would You Choose?”
- The “Detail Shot”: An extreme close-up of a beautifully mitered corner joint showing the crisp, professional finish. Text overlay: “DIY Mirror Frame That Looks Custom Made”
Loving these bathroom upgrades? [Sign up for the Try This at Home newsletter and get my free “5 Bathroom Updates Under $50” checklist delivered straight to your inbox — no renovation required!]
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How to Fix Ugly Grout Without Scrubbing for Hours
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The “In a Nutshell” Box
| ⏱️ Time Required | 1–2 Hours |
| 🔨 Skill Level | Absolute Beginner |
| 💰 Estimated Cost | $15–$40 (depending on the size of the area) |
| ✨ Core Benefit | Grout that looks freshly installed — without a single hour of back-breaking scrubbing |
The Grout That Has Been Quietly Driving You Crazy
Let’s talk about something that nobody really wants to admit.
You keep your home clean. You wipe down the counters, you mop the floors, you scrub the sink until it shines. But no matter what you do, no matter how hard you scrub, no matter which miracle cleaning product you try from the grocery store — that grout still looks terrible.
It is gray when it used to be white. Or it is stained in the corners near the shower. Or it has that one dark streak along the kitchen backsplash that appeared mysteriously one day and has never, ever come out no matter what you throw at it.
And the worst part? It makes your whole bathroom or kitchen look dirty — even when everything else is spotless.
You have probably tried the baking soda and vinegar trick. You have probably tried the bleach pen. You may have even tried one of those electric scrubbing brushes that promised to change your life and mostly just made your wrist hurt.
Here is what nobody told you: The problem is not your cleaning technique. The problem is that grout is porous, and once it is stained or discolored, no amount of scrubbing will restore it to its original color.
But here is the good news — and it is very, very good news: You do not need to scrub it. You need to recolor it.
And that is exactly what we are going to do today, using one of the most satisfying and underrated products in the entire home improvement world: the grout pen.
What You’ll Need for This Project
The Star of the Show — Grout Pens:
Not all grout pens are created equal, and choosing the right one makes all the difference. Here are my top recommendations:
For White or Light Grout:
Grout Pen White by Rust-Oleum (The most popular and most trusted grout pen on the market — covers beautifully in one pass and dries to a hard, durable finish.)
For Beige or Ivory Grout:
Grout Pen in Beige/Ivory (A perfect match for the warm-toned grout found in many older homes.)
For Gray Grout:
Grout Pen in Gray (Great for refreshing modern gray grout that has become uneven or stained.)
For Large Areas (Floors or Big Walls):
Grout Pen Wide Tip (The wider tip covers more ground faster — a lifesaver for floor tile projects.)
💡 Pro Tip: If you are not sure which color to choose, buy the white pen first. White grout is the most universally flattering and makes any tiled surface look freshly installed and sparkling clean. Even if your original grout was beige or cream, going slightly brighter white often looks even better than the original!
Everything Else You Will Need:
- 🧼 A Good Tile Cleaner — Zep Grout Cleaner and Brightener (For the initial clean before you apply the pen)
- 🪥 A Stiff Grout Brush — OXO Good Grips Grout Brush (For the one round of scrubbing we actually do need to do — more on this below)
- 🧽 A Damp Sponge or Cloth — For wiping excess pen color off the tile surface
- 🧤 Rubber Gloves — To protect your hands from the grout colorant
- 💨 Good Ventilation — Open a window or turn on the exhaust fan
The Honest Truth About Grout Pens
Before we get into the how-to, let me give you the real, unfiltered truth — because that is what we do here at Try This at Home.
✅ What Grout Pens Do Brilliantly:
- They completely transform the look of stained, discolored, or dingy grout
- They are incredibly easy to use — if you can color inside the lines, you can do this
- They are fast — a standard bathroom can be done in under two hours
- The results are genuinely stunning — the before and after is one of the most dramatic of any DIY project
- They are long-lasting when applied correctly over a properly cleaned surface
⚠️ What Grout Pens Cannot Do:
- They cannot fix cracked or crumbling grout — that needs to be repaired first (I will cover this below!)
- They are not a substitute for cleaning mold or mildew — that must be treated and killed before you apply the pen
- They work best on wall tile and backsplashes — floor grout gets more wear and may need reapplication every year or two
- They will not adhere well to wet or damp grout — the surface must be completely dry
💡 The Golden Rule: A grout pen is a cosmetic solution, not a structural one. If your grout is cracked, missing, or has active mold, fix those issues first. Then use the pen to make everything look beautiful. Think of it like makeup — it works best on a healthy, clean surface!
Step 1: Assess Your Grout First
⏱️ Time: 10 Minutes
Before you buy anything, take a good look at your grout in good lighting. Here is what to look for:
Is Your Grout Just Stained or Discolored?
✅ Perfect for a grout pen! This is exactly what the pen is designed for. Proceed with confidence.
Does Your Grout Have Pink or Orange Staining?
⚠️ That pink or orange color is actually a type of bacteria called Serratia marcescens — very common in bathrooms. You need to treat it with a bleach-based cleaner first, let it dry completely, and then use your grout pen. This Tilex Mold and Mildew Remover kills it on contact.
Does Your Grout Have Black Spots?
⚠️ Black spots are mold. Treat with Clorox Tilex Mold Remover, let it work for 10 minutes, scrub, rinse, and let dry completely before using your pen.
Is Your Grout Cracked or Crumbling?
🛑 Stop here and repair first. Use Polyblend Grout Renew or DAP Kwik Seal Caulk to fill any cracks or gaps. Let cure completely before proceeding.
Is Your Grout Missing in Spots?
🛑 Fill it first. Use Pre-Mixed Grout in a Matching Color to fill any missing sections. Let cure for 24 hours before using your pen.
Step 2: The One Round of Cleaning You Actually Need to Do
⏱️ Time: 20–30 Minutes
I know I promised you no hours of scrubbing. And I meant it. But there is one round of cleaning that is genuinely necessary — and it is much easier than what you have been doing.
Here is why: The grout pen colorant needs to bond directly to the grout surface. If there is a layer of soap scum, cleaning product residue, or surface grime sitting on top of the grout, the colorant will bond to that layer instead of the grout — and it will peel off within days.
So we need to clean the grout properly just once. Here is how to do it efficiently:
- Spray your grout lines generously with Zep Grout Cleaner.
- Let it sit for 5 minutes — this is the key step that most people skip. The cleaner needs time to break down the grime chemically so you do not have to do it physically.
- Scrub with your stiff grout brush. You will be amazed at how much easier this is after the cleaner has had time to work.
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
- Dry completely with a clean towel.
- Let the grout air dry for at least 2 hours — or overnight if possible. The grout must be completely, thoroughly dry before you apply the pen.
💡 The “Paper Towel Test”: Press a dry paper towel firmly against the grout. If it comes away damp, the grout is not ready yet. Wait another hour and test again. This simple test has saved me from many a failed grout pen application!
Step 3: Tape Off Your Tiles (Optional but Recommended for Beginners)
⏱️ Time: 15–20 Minutes
Here is a step that is completely optional but that I highly recommend for first-timers: tape off the tiles on either side of your grout lines using FrogTape.
Yes, it takes a little extra time upfront. But it means you can apply the grout pen quickly and confidently without worrying about getting color on your tiles. And any color that does get on the tape just peels away with it at the end.
Once you have done this a couple of times and feel confident with the pen, you will not need the tape anymore. But for your first project, it is a wonderful safety net.
Step 4: Apply the Grout Pen
⏱️ Time: 30–60 Minutes Depending on Area Size
This is the satisfying part. This is the part that makes you feel like a magician.
- Shake the grout pen well for about 30 seconds.
- Press the tip firmly onto a piece of scrap paper or cardboard and pump gently until the colorant starts flowing. This primes the tip and ensures an even flow.
- Place the tip at one end of a grout line and draw it slowly and steadily along the line, just like drawing with a marker.
- Apply light, even pressure — you want a consistent flow of colorant, not a blob.
- Work in small sections — about 2–3 feet at a time.
- After each section, use a damp sponge to immediately wipe any colorant off the tile surface. Do not let it dry on the tile — it is much harder to remove once dry.
💡 The “Two-Pass” Method: For the most opaque, even coverage, apply one thin pass along each grout line and let it dry for 20 minutes. Then go back and apply a second thin pass. Two thin coats always look better than one thick coat — just like painting a wall!
Working Efficiently:
- Do all the horizontal lines first, then all the vertical lines. This is much faster than doing each grout intersection individually.
- Work from top to bottom on walls so any drips fall onto unfinished grout rather than finished work.
- On floors, work backward toward the door so you do not have to step on your finished work.
Step 5: Clean Up the Tiles
⏱️ Time: 10–15 Minutes
Once you have finished applying the pen and the colorant has dried for about 20 minutes, it is time to clean up any color that got onto the tile surface.
- Dampen a clean sponge with warm water.
- Wipe the tile surface gently — the colorant on the smooth tile surface will wipe away easily.
- The colorant in the porous grout lines will stay put because it has bonded to the grout.
- Rinse your sponge frequently and keep wiping until the tile surface is clean.
💡 For Stubborn Spots: If any colorant has dried on the tile surface and will not wipe off with a damp sponge, a little rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball will remove it without affecting the grout lines.
Step 6: Let It Cure and Seal It
⏱️ Time: 24 Hours Curing, 15 Minutes Sealing
Let your freshly colored grout cure for a full 24 hours before exposing it to water or steam.
Once cured, I strongly recommend applying a grout sealer. This is the step that turns a temporary fix into a long-lasting transformation.
This Aqua Mix Sealer’s Choice Gold is my absolute favorite. It goes on clear, dries in minutes, and creates an invisible barrier that repels water, soap scum, and staining for up to three years.
Here is how to apply it:
- Pour a small amount of sealer onto a clean cloth or use the applicator bottle.
- Wipe it along each grout line.
- Let sit for 5 minutes.
- Wipe away any excess from the tile surface.
- Let cure for 24 hours before getting it wet.
💡 Why Sealing Matters: Unsealed grout is like a sponge — it absorbs everything that touches it. Sealed grout repels stains and is dramatically easier to keep clean. This one extra step means your beautiful new grout color will stay looking fresh for years instead of months!
What About Really Bad Grout? The Nuclear Option
Sometimes grout is beyond what a pen can fix. Maybe it is severely stained, deeply discolored, or just so old and tired that even a fresh coat of colorant will not make it look right.
In that case, meet your new best friend: Polyblend Grout Renew.
This is not a pen — it is a full grout colorant that you apply with a small brush and that completely resurfaces the grout line with a fresh, opaque coat of color. It is slightly more work than a pen but gives an even more dramatic result on severely damaged grout.
The application process is the same as the pen method above, just with a small paintbrush instead of a marker tip. And the results are absolutely stunning — it is like having brand new grout installed without touching a single tile.
The “Oops!” Section — Troubleshooting
“The color is peeling off after just a few days!”
The grout was not completely dry when you applied the pen, or there was still a layer of cleaning product residue on the surface. Remove the peeling colorant with a stiff brush, clean the grout thoroughly, let it dry completely for 24 hours, and reapply.
“The color looks patchy and uneven.”
You need a second coat! Let the first coat dry for 20 minutes and apply a second thin, even pass. Two coats always gives a more uniform result.
“I got colorant all over my tiles and it dried there.”
Dampen a cloth with rubbing alcohol and rub gently. It will come off the smooth tile surface without affecting the grout lines. For very stubborn dried spots, a plastic scraper used very gently will lift it without scratching the tile.
“The pen tip is getting clogged.”
Wipe the tip clean with a damp cloth and pump it a few times on scrap paper to get the flow going again. If it is severely clogged, soak the tip in warm water for a few minutes.
“My grout lines are very wide and the pen tip is too narrow.”
Switch to the wide-tip version of the grout pen, or use Polyblend Grout Renew with a small brush for better coverage on wider grout lines.
The Big Reveal: Grout That Looks Brand New
Step back and look at your tile.
Those grout lines that have been quietly driving you crazy for years? They are bright, clean, and uniform. The whole tiled surface looks like it was just professionally installed. Your bathroom or kitchen looks cleaner than it has in years — and you did not spend a single hour on your hands and knees scrubbing.
Pull out that “Before” photo. Look at the difference.
That transformation took you less than two hours and cost less than $40. And it will last for years with the sealer protecting it.
You Are a Grout Whisperer Now!
You have just discovered one of the best-kept secrets in home maintenance. While everyone else is scrubbing their grout with toothbrushes and crying into their cleaning buckets, you now know the smarter, faster, easier way.
And I have a feeling you are already looking around your house thinking about which other tiled surfaces could use this treatment.
(The answer is probably all of them. You are welcome.)
I would absolutely love to see your before and after photos! Drop them in the comments below and tell me — bathroom, kitchen, or floor? Which area did you tackle first? 👇
Go ahead — Try This at Home!
